Veggin’ Out

Summer is a time for cookouts at my house — I’ll fire up the grill for any occasion: a family gathering, hanging with friends, or just because I don’t want to use the stove. I love preparing the food, getting everything cooked to the right temperature, and having friends and family enjoy a meal on the back deck.

Now you may have noticed that I’ve tried to eat healthier lately, going so far as to attempt being vegan. That must really put a cramp in my grilling routine, huh?

Actually, no. I mean, obviously you can grill veggies (and even fruit!), so that’s the not the issue. The fact is, most people (myself included) want a burger or a hot dog or a nice juicy grilled chicken breast at a cookout. Vegans can’t have those things…can they?

Of course they can! Well, sort of.

Odds are, you’ve heard of “meat substitutes” or “plant-based proteins” or maybe even “meatless meat.” Some of the classic versions of these include tofu, tempeh, and seitan — decent enough stuff, but not very likely to convert many meat-eaters to Team Vegan.

Recently, there’s been an explosion of “meatless meat”–specifically plant-based burgers, sausages, and chicken substitutes that look, feel, and even “bleed” like meat. Even an adventurous eater like myself had to pause at the thought of these creations. What’s in them? How are they made? Could they possibly even taste good?

Well, I’ll spare you my attempt to explain the science and process behind these food products. All I’ll say is that plant-based burgers are not the same as traditional veggie burgers or mushroom burgers (which I also enjoy). Meatless meat is processed from plants like soy, peas, and rice, and textured to resemble ground beef. Essentially, they are trying to look, feel, and taste as much like a traditional burger as possible.

As a public service, I prepared and ate three types of meatless meat burgers at various cookouts this summer, and I have below my reviews of each, ranking them. So let’s get cookin’!

Disclaimer: I am not a health expert, nor am I giving any health recommendations. The opinions expressed here are solely my own, and given without any compensation from any of the companies mentioned below.

#3. Incogmeato

First on my list is MorningStar Farms’ Incogmeato, a non-GMO soy-based burger. It comes ground up or formed in patties; I bought the patties.

These burgers grilled nicely, keeping their shape and getting those grill lines like a burger in a commercial. It took maybe eight minutes total to cook them up.

But how did they taste?

In a word: dense. The patty held its shape almost too well… the texture was like biting into a firm salmon cake. It was also quite salty, but otherwise quite flavorful. Of the three I tried, this was my least favorite.

Verdict: If you want your meatless meat thick and salty, Incogmeato might be the right choice for you. Personally, I prefer MorningStar’s black bean burgers over their Incogmeato any day.

Grilled Incogmeato patties on Dave’s Killer bun with Chao non-dairy cheese
#2. Beyond Burger

The second faux-burger I grilled up was a Beyond Burger, a non-GMO pea-rice-bean patty that sizzles thanks to coconut oil and “bleeds” because there’s beet juice in it.

These puppies grilled up more like a traditional burger — when they were thawed, they came apart slightly on the grill. They were easy to keep in shape, but they were definitely less compacted than the Incogmeato patty. They cooked up in about 8-10 minutes also, with a nice sear on the outside and some pink inside.

The taste: This patty had a more “burger-like” texture — it crumbled a little when I bit into it, but had the springiness of beef. It reminded me of a mushroom-based burger in terms of texture and the umami flavor. It wasn’t seasoned a ton, so I would probably put some of my own spices in it next time.

Verdict: The Beyond Burger comes close to simulating a juicy, fall-apart beef burger. Just remember to hit it with some salt, pepper, and any other spices you might like before slapping it on the grill!

#1. Impossible Burger

The OG of meatless meat, the Impossible Burger is not without controversy. Built on soy and potato protein, Impossible Burgers include heme, a molecule that gives meat it’s “meaty” flavor (theirs is derived from soy and yeast). A lot of science has gone into these things, and of all the plant-based proteins, Impossible burgers have probably received the most media attention, positive and negative.

I was aware of the hype, and so it was with some reservation that I prepared these patties. I let them thaw before grilling, and they became very soft — be mindful of how long they’re out of the freezer before you cook them.

I grilled these patties for maybe 6 or 7 minutes total; I was curious to see how a mid-rare/medium plant burger compared to a beef burger. It came off the grill intact, sliding off the turner and onto the bun with just the right blend of firmness and suppleness. It smelled great, and was still juicy and…well, bloody. But was it all sizzle and no fake-steak?

Let me tell you, folks, the Impossible Burger is IT. The patties turned out chewy, tender, flavorful, and downright meaty. I liked them as much as–if not more than–a beef burger. I ate both of them eagerly, struggling to both sing their praises and stuff my face with them as quickly as possible. They were far and away my favorite plant-based burgers.

I know Impossible Burgers (and meatless meats in general) aren’t something you should eat every day, but dang…when you can get one, it’s worth it to treat yourself once in a while.

An Original Impossible Burger, left, and a Cali Burger, from Umami Burger, are shown in this photo in New York, Friday, May 3, 2019. A new era of meat alternatives is here, with Beyond Meat becoming the first vegan meat company to go public and Impossible Burger popping up on menus around the country. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)

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